Finally I till or rake the secret ingredients into the bed. I always plant the root ball of the flower about half an inch above the ground. This is because I want to leave room for mulch mini-nuggets of pine bark, in my case without covering too much of the root ball which would cause it to be planted to deep. The mulch I use is about two inches, or less, in diameter making it the perfect size as the flowers can be damaged by something larger.
Once I finish my mulching, I water with a water-solubule fertilizer. The third key ingredient for your flowers to thrive is ongoing fertility. If you live in an area that gets lots of rain or has a very sandy soil where you have to use irrigation often, you are going to have to feed your flowers more frequently.
I use a low-potassium granular fertilizer once a month and a water-soluble fertilizer every 10 days, assuming that my flowers are getting about an inch of rain per week during the spring and summer months. Again, I would adjust the fertility if the flowers get more or less water. If you want to stay away from chemicals, just top dress with a soil conditioner, which is full of nutrients to feed your flowers. To plant a traditional flowerbed, arrange the tallest plants in the back of the bed and work your way down to the shortest at the front of the bed.
I recommend that your bed be at least four to five feet deep to leave enough room for all of your plants to grow. Photo by Gabriel de Urioste. Whichever flowers you choose to plant in your All-American garden, one thing is certain: the results will be beautiful. Homes Interior Designers.
Flora Fauna Web
At the Table Jason Burnett November 3, Jason Burnett April 19, Red flowers of pentas. Photo by Jim Persons. White hollyhocks. Photo by Jolly Roberts. Share this: Click to share on Twitter Opens in new window Click to share on Facebook Opens in new window Click to share on Pinterest Opens in new window Click to email this to a friend Opens in new window.
Learn how to arrange flowers from designers and tastemakers in the floral and event world. From crafting centerpieces, wreaths, garlands to bouquets and boutonnieres, enjoy dozens of step-by-step guides prepared by the floral experts featured in FLOWER magazine. Doesn't seed readily, but easily propagated is you have one plant by digging it up in winter and splitting the roots into multiple chunks.
My garden is full of it, so if you want some and live near E Sussex I can supply a root or two for free. Flowers in late spring, also provides red berries for birds in winter.
Butterfly Garden Plants that Support Pollinators
A low-growing, spreading shrub, very hardy. Pretty and unusual perennial, with mauve flowers producing spiky balls on tall stury stems in high summer. A stunning biennial wildflower growing to about 4', flowering in July and August and absolutely loved by bees of all types for its copious nectar. Likes a sunny, well-drained site, and given this will freely self-seed. No cottage garden is complete without foxgloves, hardy biennials that are loved by long-tongued bees such as B.
Tolerate shade well, but flower best in full sun. Freely self-seeds. Not to be confused with the gaudy Pelargonium, geraniums are hardy perennials that come in a broad range of colours, but most are moderately attractive to short-tongued bees.
The wild Geranium pratense is shown. They are great for ground cover in the front of a border. Geranium sanguinea also good, and the cultivated forms 'Patricia' and 'Ann Folkard'. Grows to 6' or more. You can of course also harvest and eat the buds, but try to leave some for the bees! A favourite with male bumbles. The spring-flowering garden varieties are particularly popular with early-emerging queen bumblebees, some flowering as early as February when little else is available. The summer-flowering native species are less valuable in a garden setting, though in the wild they are important foodplants for heathland bumblebee species.
Flower in late winter, great for early emerging queens. Unusual looking herbaceous plants, usually less than 1' tall. A new discovery for me, Helenium's seem very popular with bees of all sizes, but particularly with some of the smaller solitary bees. Seems prone to dying off in the winter in my soggy clay garden. Many varieties are available, if anyone finds out which ones are best for bees please let me know. Iconic, very tall annuals, producing spectacular dinner-plate sized flowers that attract many insects, including bumblebees, honeybees and hoverflies.
Bees seem to go for the nectar but ignore the plentiful pollen, often becoming smothered in it. Needs staking or growing in dense clumps. An unusual annual, preferring sunny locations. Produces huge amounts of nectar, but I've always found it hard to keep this plant going in my garden. Very pretty little perennial, up to 2' tall, and often overlooked as a plant for bees.
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Easy to grow perennial, tolerates most conditions, flowers in May-June. An understated, low-growing perennial herb, can also be used in cooking though not to my taste - I prefer to leave it to the bees! There are many species of iris grown in gardens - generally with spectacular flowers that are good for bees. Yellow flag iris that grows in ponds is also good. I'd welcoem suggestions for particular varieties that are best for bees.
A common meadow wildflower, but takes well to the herbaceous border.
Flowers July-August, partticularly favoured as drinking posts for male bumblebees. Everybody's favourite, including the bees. A long-lived, hardy perennial although susceptible to hard frosts in the far north of the UK. Flowers in July and August, and guarantees a cloud of bees. A bit tricky to propogate from seed, can be grown from cuttings.
Dutch lavender, Lavandula x intermedia is the best species for bee visits, and variety Gros Bleu performed best of all in trials by Michael Garbuzov at Sussex University. Lovely traditional cottage garden short-lived herbaceous perrenial, easy to propagate from seed. Most varieties produce little nectar, but bees like the bright orange pollen. An invasive weed in Scandinavia, but does not seem to be a problem in UK. A great all rounder, easy to grow, attractive to heaps of different pollinators, and good for cooking too! An essential plant for every garden. There are several wild species in the UK, and many garden varieties.
Water mint is great for ponds, and is one of the most attractive for bees. Most flower July-September. Very easy to grow, but can be invasive, so best planted into containers. A fantastic cottage garden classic, extremely popular with bumblebees, and flowering for a long period from early summer to autumn.
Very easy to grow, every garden should have some. Hills Giant is one of the best varieties for bees. Perhaps the single most attractive plant for bees on the planet! An easy-to-grow annual, flowers in weeks from sowing and keeps flowerring for quite a while.
Incredibly nectar rich, bees go crazy for it. A North American native, easy to grow from seed. Sometimes sold as a green manure. A great early spring nectar resource for hungry queen bumblebees, visited by long-tongued species, especially Bombus pascuorum.
An easy perennial, best near the front of a border. A lovely perennial wildflower with a very long flowering period, from May to September. Readily seeds, and tolerates shade. Plants are either male or female. A staple of bumblebees in the wild, red clover used to be a very common UK plant. Doesn't make much of a border plant, but great naturalized in meadow areas. Favoured by long-tongued bumblebees.
An odd plant in that it flowers almost all year round, including the depths of winter.